Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.